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By Jaylan Boyle, Senior Contributing Reporter

RIO DE JANEIRO – Beneath the palm-fringed beach stereotype that most visitors to Rio have, there is a bustling city that functions like any other major metropolis, and suburbs like Botafogo do more than their glamorous neighbors to reflect this reality.

The Consulado de Portugal building on Rua São Clemente, photo by Jaylan Boyle.

This doesn’t mean you should expect a cookie-cutter utilitarian look: like nearly everywhere else in this city, the grandeur of Rio’s past is not hard to find or admire. If colonial architecture is your thing, then Botafogo delivers, along with a bustling commercial hub.

Its geography lends the neighborhood a degree of isolation from the rest of the inner city, although tell that to commuters crawling through traffic on Ruas São Clemente or Voluntários da Pátria. Sandwiched between several mountains separating it from Laranjeiras and Copacabana, the area looks like a tantalizingly brief stroll to the beach, unless you’ve got a topographical map in front of you.

Botafogo got off to an early lead in Rio’s history. Named after the Portuguese settler João Pereira ‘Botafogo’ de Souza, whose nickname means ‘to set on fire’, the future of the neighborhood was assured in the early 1800s with the arrival of the Portuguese royal court.

When Dom João VI’s wife Carlota Joaquina requested a country villa there, the area naturally became a focus for those seeking to ingratiate themselves, and mansions mushroomed. A legacy of this burst of affluence are the many museums and galleries that are now housed in these grandiose old buildings.

Botafogo comprises the area surrounding the one-way arteries Rua Voluntários da Pátria and Rua São Clemente, with Humaita and the lake at one end and Praia Botafogo at the other. You won’t find many beach-goers on this stretch of sand unfortunately, as the beach has a reputation for pollution and a degree of petty crime. Praia Botafogo is most known for the massive mall across the street, Praia Botafogo Shopping.

Looking down one of Botafogo's main thoroughfares, Rua Voluntários da Pátria, photo by Jaylan Boyle.

For entertainment, Botafogo caters to a broad spectrum. There’s no shortage of neighborhood bars where everybody knows your name, and music lovers are looked after at spots like Cinematheque at the beach end of Voluntários da Pátria, or Casa Matriz and Pista 3’s sweaty dance floors.

The sophisticated jet-setter looking to impress might consider a trip to Champagneria on Rua Bambina for a bottle of bubbly. This place wouldn’t seem out of place in London’s Soho, though prices are much more in line with the locale. Also, Joaquina’s restaurant is a great choice for sophisticated dining, one of Rio’s finest reasonable eateries with a very diverse menu.

Botafogo has a reputation for some of the finest schools in Rio, including arguably the city’s most prestigious, the British School of Rio de Janeiro. The many specialist medical clinics means high quality health care, and travel is not a problem thanks to a Metro station and buses in every direction.

While it’s considered one of Rio’s more affluent suburbs, in Botafogo, like much of Rio, the rich rub shoulders with the less advantaged. The Dona Marta favela has in the past attracted it’s fair share of negative headlines, but recent efforts to remove the drug cartels have helped to create a community that is frequently referenced as a demonstration of what is possible to achieve in the favelas.

As Sérgio Amaral of Ética real estate explains, “(With) the programs of pacification of the poorest areas and the support of federal and state government, these regions have changed and values of the properties located around these areas recovered by 20 percent”.

BOTOFOGO REAL ESTATE PRICE GUIDE: (figures courtesy of Ética)
Apartments for sale:
1 BR: R$100,000 – R$800,000, average R$200,000 – R$400,000
2 BR: R$150,000 – R$1 million, average R$300,000 – R$800,000
3 BR: R$300,000 – R$3 million, average R$400,000 – R$1 million
or R$5,000 – R$8,000/m2

Apartments to rent:
1 BR: R$500 -R$2,000/month, average R$1,000
2 BR: R$1,200 – R$5,000/month, average R$2000 – R$4,000
3 BR: R$2,000 – R$8,000/month, average R$3,000 – R$5,000

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  1. Given that boatfogo is such a run down area with very few “nice” places to go or facilities its a bit hard to believe the average price is not more near $20,000 to $50,000 apart from new builds.Is this real estate vendors trying to talk up the prices again ? Worthwhile remembering that a primary cause of the financial crisis was mortgage fraud which was fuelled by property speculation and given that local salaries are so low and NOT rising its very hard to believe these figures.Also very hard even for local people to get a mortgage in Brazil.

  2. Actually, the real estate market in Rio is doing amazingly well. I do believe these stats but I would like to point out that the norm is on the lower end, not the higher. I know Botafogo is a bit run down but look at other neighborhoods nearby. On Rua das Laranjeiras, the part near Lgo do Machado, a normal 3 bdroom apartment with parking spot is selling for upwards of R$520,000. It’s insane but it is what it is.

    Local salaries are low for the majority but the small middle class and larger upper class make good money. Mortgages here are a bitch but they are given out. I have a mortgage.

  3. […] Botafogo Although still one of Rio’s most expensive bairros (neighborhoods), Botafogo is a lot cheaper than its more upmarket neighbors, Leblon and Ipanema. Comprising the area between two arterial roads, Rua Voluntários da Pátria and Rua São Clemente, Botafogo is recognized as one of the up-and-comers in Rio’s Zona Sul, as proven by the many new bars and stores opening in the area. […]

  4. […] Botafogo Located between Copacabana and Flamengo, Botafogo has a slightly edgier reputation than some Zona Sul districts, however the sharp rise in demand for real estate across the south zone has benefited the relatively underdeveloped market here. Amenities and transport links are good, with Rio Sul Shopping and Botafogo Praia Shopping malls in the area. Apartments at the R$1,500 price range are a more spacious sixty square meters on average, and can be found with one or two bedrooms, fitted kitchens, ocean views and separate dining rooms. […]

  5. […] Botafogo Botafogo is a popular area with students and increasingly families, but suffers similar traffic problems to Copacabana during peak hours. Rio Sul Shopping and Botafogo Praia Shopping are two excellent malls in close proximity, and there is certainly no shortage of bars and restaurants to keep residents entertained. Apartments in the R$2,500 price range are a more spacious 80-120m² on average, and can be found with two or three bedrooms, fitted kitchens and bathrooms and pleasant views. Many will also feature private balconies or terraces and communal facilities such as a pool. […]

  6. […] Botafogo Between Copacabana and Flamengo, Botafogo has a slightly edgier reputation than some Zona Sul districts, due to its proximity to the Dona Marta favela. However, in recent years, the relatively underdeveloped Botafogo housing market has benefited from the city-wide housing boom. Amenities are plentiful and Rio Sul and Botafogo Praia Shopping are close by. The ‘Aterro’ express-way makes for easy commuting to Centro. […]

  7. […] Botafogo Botafogo feels constantly on the move, with two of the city’s main artery roads running through it, a metro station and sandwiched as it is between the Lagoa and the beach. The property market is similarly fluctuating and always has a huge variety on offer, making it difficult to identify a “typical” apartment or size due to the huge variety available. […]


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