CARTAGENA, COLUMBIA – From the lapping turquoise waves of the Caribbean rise centuries old ramparts erected to rebuke the onslaught of pirates from a bygone time. Sailboats and yachts ply the waters of the port while the walls protect the gem-colored colonial buildings of Getsemaní, the 500 year old waterside region of Colombia’s famed city Cartagena.

The beautiful streets of Cartagena hold numerous hidden treasures, photo by Doug Gray.

Walking under the gates of one of South America’s oldest cities, it’s easy to be taken back in history. Cartagena de Indias is heavily fortified and for good reason – the city was raided by everyone from Basques to French noblemen on the pillage, to English pirates like Sir Frances Drake ever since the Spanish first built a town on the site of a former indigenous Kalamari village. Later, Getsemaní became an area inhabited predominantly by slaves.

Cartagena’s beaches lie mostly in the Bocagrande area, a short bus ride from Getsemaní. Music combines with sun and sand to make every weekend a party here, and although the seawater isn’t the most beautiful of the area, you can take boat rides out to nicer waters from the shore.

If you are looking for a little more isolation, take a launch out to Playa Blanca from Muelle Turistico de la Boguita – a nearby, pristine stretch of beach little more than an hour’s boat trip from town. The ride out is nearly as beautiful as the pristine crescent of white sand – you’ll skip off the waves alongside flying fish and cliff-side grottoes.

If you enjoy the place enough, you can pitch a hammock overnight at Wittenberg’s Place. If you go out on a new moon when the sky is black enough, a midnight’s swim will be highlighted in bright phosphorescent plankton.

The white Sands of Playa Blanca, photo by mallox/Flickr Creative Commons License.

Sizzling Caribbean street food offers spices that contribute to some of Colombia’s best cuisine. Culinary staples such as coconut rice and fresh fried fish accompany a range of cheap juices squeezed straight from the fruit.

Like most Colombian cities, Cartagena moves. Whether it’s the ritzy clubs of Bocagrande or famous Getsemaní fixtures like Mister Babilla, there is nearly always something to do on weekends.

If you’re in the market for cheap emeralds, this is also the place to be, but the large number of naïve cruise liner tourists is naturally accompanied by an equal amount of hustlers hawking fake gems. Be careful what you get yourself into – many of the same hustlers are involved in currency scams offering exchange rates that are obviously too good to be true.

As Colombia’s most touristic city, Cartagena doesn’t lack in accommodation. Whether it’s super budget hostels within the walls of Getsemaní like the classic Casa Vienna or ritzy hotels in Bocagrande, there is no shortage of rooms, just hunt on the internet until you find your preference. Flights to and from Cartagena go through the Rafael Núñez International Airport and start at around USD$849 (off season) for a round trip from Rio.

AMAZONAS, COLOMBIA – Haphazard houses made from wooden slats and corrugated metal rooftops rise out of the surrounding jungle as flocks of mopeds cruise by. Several-dozen paved roads quickly deteriorate to pothole-filled gravel before being swallowed entirely by foliage. Isolated by road from all three of the countries at the shared border, Leticia offers a rare kind of energy as a lost jungle city.

Jungle around Leticia, photo by Pablo/T/Flickr Creative Commons License.

With a shortage of roads to connect it with the outside world, Leticia’s attention is focused on the swirling brown waters of the Amazon. As the town’s primary connection to surrounding areas, the river is a major source of trade for Leticia. Colorful Amazonian fruits line the market stalls that descend to the river banks, while dozens of hammocks hang suspended from hooks.

Closer to the river banks, many of Leticia’s structures actually float on wooden docks built to handle the seasonal rise and fall in water level. A walk along the buoyant pathways is a great place to watch the islands of seaweed float past, sometimes complete with tanning turtles.

If you are courageous, you can even go for a swim in the dark waters of the Amazon. Be careful to go to the bathroom before you swim though; there is a long, narrow fish called the candiru inhabiting the water that has been known to swim up the human urethra during urination.

Floating houses on the banks of the Amazon, photo courtesy of Threat to Democracy/Flickr Creative Commons License.

Various tour operators run boat trips and treks of varying lengths into the jungle. For the adventurous, some operators can set up a rendezvous with a local shaman, who can offer a psycho-therapeutic session with “ayahuasca”. The shaman will be there to guide you through a long series of hallucinogenic visions but be careful, as ayahuasca is an extremely powerful psychological experience that can produce lasting mental effects on individuals.

The local cuisine is based on fresh water fish. Ramshackle restaurants offering anything from the huge tambaqui to the smaller surubim. A couple of the restaurants have descriptive drawings of the various fish available on the walls. Otherwise, indulge in sancocho, the staple stew made of large chunks of meat, potatoes and yucca.

Leticia is actually the name of the Colombian part of town that exists in an area referred to as “Três Fronteras”, or Three Borders. Even though there is nothing more than a speed bump and a tollbooth separating the town, the Brazilian side is called Tabatinga. A collection of shacks that make up the Peruvian village of Santa Rosa sits on an island in the river.

Of the three sections, Leticia is probably the most pleasant, although most of the river ferries going upstream towards Iquitos or downstream to Manaus stop in Tabatinga. If you don’t have the patience for an adventurous boat trip down the Amazon, there are airports both on the Colombian and Brazilian side of the border that fly to domestic destinations in each corresponding country.

SÃO PAULO – While many get discouraged at the sometimes elite and pricey São Paulo scene, there are still a variety of trendy places that are easy on the wallet and well worth checking out. Abundant in cultural diversity, São Paulo offers a plethora of attractions for the budgeted tourist to the light pocketed local; there is indeed no shortage of inexpensive weekend attractions.

The impressive São Paulo skyline at night, photo by Teosaurio/Flickr Creative Commons License.

Exceptional cuisine is something the local Paulistas take a great deal of pride in. There are over 12,000 restaurants and over 15,000 bars to choose from offering cuisines from over sixty different countries, not to mention the eclectic Mercado Municipal. Everything from Thai, Arab, Japanese, Mexican, French, American, or Native Brazilian, you can easily find quality dishes for under R$25.

If there is any place in Brazil to experience delicious oriental cuisine then the Liberdade neighborhood is it, the market being open both Saturdays and Sundays. You can find traditional noodle dishes like Yakisoba for as little as R$4 that will leave you full until dinner time. Aside from authentic oriental dishes there is an arts and crafts market which makes for a great place to buy souvenirs as everything is handmade and the prices are reasonable.

Another very enjoyable destination that is often overlooked is São Paulo’s very own Aquarium located in the Ipiranga neighborhood. Aquário de São Paulo, which is the first themed aquarium in South America, houses hundreds of different types of fish and aquatic animals including playful otters and penguins and impressive Amazonian manatees and Piranhas. The average entrance price is only R$30 per person, relatively cheap considering it is an intriguing and entertaining spectacle be it for couples, friends or families, which requires at least half a day’s visit.

MASP, São Paulo's number one art museum, photo by Peteris2009/Flickr Creative Commons License.

São Paulo’s Ibirapuera Park, often compared to New York’s Central Park, is the largest patch of green in the city and makes for a great place to enjoy the Sub-Tropical Brazilian climate on the weekends. For fitness, you can find just about any sport being played and for leisure a great number of Paulistas laying on the grass, reading, and having a picnic. On Sundays they offer open- air concerts with live music for those interested in dancing or listening to traditional Brazilian music for free.

What trip to São Paulo would be complete without a visit to the Museum? The MASP (Museu de Arte de São Paulo) is an icon of cultural exuberance in the city. While visiting the Museum you can view hundreds of pieces by renowned artists such as Nattier, Ingres, Renoir, Van Gogh, Tintoretto, Rembrandt, and Monet for the small entrance fee of just R$15. To add to a pleasant day, on Sundays there is a captivating antiques flea market right outside the museum with items sure to impress history enthusiasts.

Before leaving the city one should experience a bit of the night life at any of the city’s livelier neighborhoods such as Vila Madalena. It’s a great way to get to know São Paulo and the locals on a more intimate level, and is sure to leave a lasting impression.

Regular flights from Rio to São Paulo with Gol from around R$349.

NITEROI – If you ask a typical Carioca what is best about Niterói, they will probably answer, “The view of Rio,” while if you ask a resident of Niterói about Rio, they will likely shudder, check if you really need to go there, and tell you to watch your wallet. Stereotypes aside, and despite first impressions, the longer one weathers the frenetic energy of Rio, the more you might just welcome the relative tranquility of Niterói.

The Fortaleza Santa Cruz in Niteroi, photo by Luiz Carlos/Picasa Creative Commons License.

For the short-haul tourist, Niterói means the Museu de Arte Contemporanea (MAC), and while its clean curves and shimmering night-time reflections are required viewing, the art inside the gallery is less impressive, and it can leave the time-pressed tourist with little impression of its host city. For those with a less hectic schedule, it is worth considering spending a whole day in Niterói.

From the Praça XV ferry terminal in Centro, board the Rio-Charitas catamaran taking you to the far side of Guanabara Bay, near the outcrop known as Morro de Pico. Once disembarked at the Niemeyer-designed Charitas terminal, the number 33 bus towards Jurujuba is the goal, getting off at the last stop. Traditionally, fishing was the primary activity in this village, with materials and skills passed from generations of father to son. Recently, however, artisanal techniques have been superseded by modern methods and fishing has become a marginal activity.

If you have any interest in military history, it is worth taking the tour of the nearby Fortaleza de Santa Cruz (open 10AM – 5PM). Otherwise, you could spend some time on the secluded ‘Adam and Eve’ beaches, tucked into some tiny coves near the fort entrance. After your morning activities, it is a good idea to sample some shrimp or mocqueca in one of Jurujuba’s renowned seafood restaurants.

After lunch, take the 33 back towards Niterói. If you are interested in seeing the picturesque 17^th Century São Xavier church, hop off at São Francisco, otherwise, stay on until Icaraí beach. The beach itself is pleasant but mainly used for sports, such as volleyball and fresco ball. The locals avoid swimming due to pollution, despite ardent counterclaims from the mayor of Niterói, who is no doubt keen to re-establish Icaraí as a competitor to the more popular Atlantic beaches.

Niteroi's iconic Modern Art Museum remains the city's best-known landmark and tourist attraction, photo by Oliver Bazely.

From Icaraí, there are several options to follow. For visitors interested in the architecture of Oscar Niemeyer, it is possible to continue along the Caminho Niemeyer, where you will eventually reach the underwhelming Praça Juscelino Kubitschek, followed by his more dramatic Teatro Popular.

If you are in need of some retail therapy, just take the 47B bus or taxi to the centre, where, despite the crowds and tatty buildings, there is a reasonable selection of shops. If you are more interested in local culture, there are several museums within walking distance, such as the Inga Museum, devoted to the art and history of Rio State.

Depending on your schedule, you may want to head back to Rio at this stage. If you prefer to travel by boat, then the ferry that leaves from the center will have you back at Praça XV in 15 minutes. If you prefer to travel by bus, or, if Praça XV is inconvenient for your final destination, then take a bus over the Rio-Niterói bridge, from which, on a clear day, the views are spectacular). The more modern, air conditioned ‘1001’ buses (761D, 751D and 741D) make stops all over Rio and cost R$5. However, during rain storms or rush hour, the bridge can become extremely congested, making the ferry comfortably the best option.

If, however, you are keen to spend the evening in Niterói, then you could head uphill towards the ‘Quiosque Cheiro de Mar’, near Boa Viagem, for a few sundowners. For late night maneuvers the best option is to head to São Francisco (back on the 33, getting off near the São Xavier church). Remember, if you stay out past 11:30PM the ferry service will have stopped, so night buses or a taxi are your only option back to Rio.

FORTALEZA – Glistening skyscrapers reflect the baby blue waters across a thin border of white beach. At night, the city illuminates the ocean and gradually comes alive to the sound of dance music and forró. Fortaleza is Brazil’s modern metropolis of the north, attracting both international and Brazilian tourists by the thousands every year.

Fortaleza's Modern center, photo by deltafrut/Flickr Creative Commons License.

As Brazil’s fifth largest city with a metropolitan population of over three million, Fortaleza is also the capital of the state of Ceará, around 2000km due north of Rio on the northeast coast.

Despite the city’s modern appearance, Fortaleza was founded around four hundred years ago. Translating as “Fortress”, it was first constructed by the Portuguese and named Fortim de São Tiago. The Dutch briefly occupied it before the Portuguese re-conquered the area shortly after, and the village began to develop in the nineteenth century as a result of the burgeoning cotton industry.

With a minimum temperature that never drops below twenty degrees, Fortaleza enjoys a perpetual summer that is only broken up by the rainy season, which lasts around six months from January to June. It is, however, a windy city, making it a great place for wind and kite surfing, but besides the surfers and tourists, a growing energy industry has begun to harvest the power of the winds in recent years.

You won’t need to look hard to find some sort of homage to Iracema, the female character in José de Alencar’s famous fictional tale (also called “Iracema”), which is set in Ceará in the early days of Portugal’s colonization of Brazil. Iracema, a Tabajara indigenous Brazilian, had a stormy relationship with the Portuguese Martim, producing a mixed son who Alencar portrays as the first true Brazilian. Modern day Fortaleza doesn’t allow the stereotype of ‘European male conquering an indigenous American female’ to stop them from celebrating this ‘deeper Brazilian-ness’ with numerous statues that naturally highlight her naked physicality.

The beach of Fortaleza, photo by ND Strupler/Flickr Creative Commons License.

Despite the modern appearance of the city, Fortaleza culture takes off when it’s time to party. Holidays and festivals are plentiful throughout the year, with the city closing roads and regularly hosting live concerts in the streets. Celebrations particularly worth checking out are Fortal, an off season Carnaval every July and Reveillon, a pyrotechnics festival to celebrate the passing of the year.

Even if it’s not festival season, though, the city maintains a high caliber of nightlife on virtually every night of the week. There are numerous clubs, though some will find it hard to even make it past the hundreds of drink carts offering cheap caipirinhas outside nearly every establishment. Many locals head out to the suburbs or venues as unusual as a rock quarry where techno DJs and live reggae have been known to thunder off the stone walls.

As for the food, Fortaleza is a wonderful place to sample some local lobster. Crustacean season takes place between January and April, during which time their harvesting is legal, and the prices in all the restaurants tend to be at their lowest.

Several pousadas also offer reasonable accommodation, including the architecturally pleasant Albergue da Juventude right on Iracema beach, the Pousada Veleiro or for the budget traveler there is Backpackers Ceará.

LENÇOIS – Brazil’s thriving cities, striking coastline and lush, green landscapes ensure that the average visitor wants for nothing, but after kicking back on white sand beaches under a beating sun, the fresh cool air of the mountains can become an irresistible draw.

Vale do Pati, Chapada Diamantina Park, photo by Samory Santos/Wikimedia Creative Commons License.

Chapada Diamantina Park sits in the center of Bahia State and gives visitors the chance to hike through a truly unique landscape. The green mesas that rise out of the earth are enough to stop the visitor in their tracks but closer inspection reveals numerous caves and waterfalls to also be explored.

The Chapada Diamantina, meaning diamond highlands, is a former mining region that was transformed into a 1520 km² park in 1985 to save it from over-exploitation. By then much damage had already been done and vast portions of fauna were destroyed, but fire is also an ever-present risk. When the park was first enclosed and the farmers banned from mining their response was, and continues to be, to periodically set fire to the park. This and the fact that the trails are completely unmarked mean it is always important to take a guide with you.

The guides can be hired either through the numerous agencies located in Lençois, the city which acts as the gateway to the park, or through the Associação de Condutores de Visitantes de Lençois (ACLV), the Visitor Guide Association. If money is no object the agencies tend to include extras such as transport and an English speaker, whilst the ACLV provides a guide and upon request food but is more intrepid than the agencies. The main difference remains the price, with the agencies charging virtually double the Agency’s prices.

Fumaca Waterfall from above, Chapada Diamantina Park, photo by Adelano Ferreira/Wikimedia Creative Commons License.

There are two principal treks into the park and a plethora of day trips to its caves. The trek to the Fumaça Waterfall, the highest in Brazil gushing water into a 380m free-fall, takes three days. On the first you will visit three smaller waterfalls, the second sees you arrive at the bottom of Fumaça and on the third day you reach the top. The hike is considered technical with many steep slippery ups and downs, and only the caves serve as accommodation, with the hikers carrying their own food.

The second trek to the Vale of Patí can be done in as little as three days or as many as eight. More open to personalization, the first day covers 22km across a vast plain flanked by enchanting mesas. The last day will be virtually the same, but in between it is possible to trek further and further into the valley as your timetable allows, visiting waterfalls, or climbing O Castello mountain, whose summit offers incredible panoramic views of the valley.

Here there are varied accommodation options. Native families live in the valley and run hostels where trekkers can stay, or it is possible to camp on their land for a smaller fee. For the really wild experience, hikers can just pitch a tent in the middle of nowhere, but undoubtedly both treks provide a truly different introduction to an aspect of Brazil that is all too often overlooked.

AMAZONIA – The heat is overpowering by mid-afternoon, but as the brown waters swirl against the hull of a creaking river ferry, a slight breeze is enough to bring peace to swaying hammocks and blow away the mosquitoes. In fact, going downriver it is sometimes easy to forget you are on a river at all, for even as far north as Letícia the river is nearly 2km wide.

Hammocks on an Amazon ferry, photo by Bruno Girin/Flickr Creative Commons License.

The Amazon was named after the Greek legend of an expedition led by Spanish conquistador Francisco Orellana purportedly attacked by a tribe of female and child warriors. Its source has been determined as a waterfall near Arequipa in Peru called the Apacheta Cliff, and the river spills 300,000 cubic meters of water into the Atlantic Ocean per second during the rainy season, fed by no less than 1100 tributaries. The most famous of these is the Rio Negro, and near Manaus the dark waters begin to run alongside the Solimões in a striking color partition before the waters eventually mix, creating what Brazilians claim to be the official beginning of the Amazon River.

Journeying The Amazon is never easy, though. If the food becomes bland, indigenous people living in villages along the banks sometimes provide fresh water shrimp and stumpy, delicious red-peeled bananas. They paddle furiously as ferries pass, latching their dugout canoes onto the larger boats with long hooks. They board to sell food and wares before setting off again and awaiting the next ferry.

The meeting of the Rio Negro and Rio Solimões, photo by Diegodacal/Flickr Creative Commons License.

Bring a fishing rod, however, and you can catch your own dinner like many of the Brazilians – and it doubles as a great way to pass the time. If you get a good captain, he may let you use the barbecue sometimes set up on the roof of the boat to cook your catch.

Spotting wildlife isn’t as common as you may think, though. In theory you can occasionally see animals drinking water from the shores of the river, but they would have to be brave enough to face the often blaring onslaught of forró music from the boats. The water itself offers a more likely view, with several unusual fish species including the beautiful pink river dolphin. The roving spotlight and top deck lanterns are usually the best place to spot wildlife on the ferry, and entomology enthusiasts will be happy attempting to classify the plethora of massive insects drawn to them at night.

Boats on the Amazon, photo by Daniel Zanini H./Flickr Creative Commons License.

If the seemingly endless vision of passing tree canopy begins to tire you, most ferries that ply the waters of the Amazon between Colombia and the Atlantic Ocean sell beer, cachaça and various other forms of sedatives. Heading back to your hammock to sway with the rocking of the boat might be just the way to capture a bit of sanity in the midst of an often hazy journey that sometimes has no ending, especially if you take the seven day trip from the Colombian border to the mouth of the Amazon near Belem.

The boats don’t necessarily follow a strict schedule, arriving ‘when they get there’ and departing ‘when they are ready’. The best thing to do is to get onto your boat as soon as it pulls into dock in order to get the best hammock space – on a busy boat the hammocks often ziz-zag across each other.

Finally, be advised that, particularly in the port of Manaus, it is a good idea to keep a close eye on your belongings. You don’t want to set sail without them. Hammocks for the journey can be purchased in most river ports and it is best to buy tickets on board, from the same people everyone else buys tickets from. They often don’t come around to collect money until the boat has already set off so be mindful of other ticket touts and get ready to relax.

BRAZIL – Hear reggae music resound off dilapidated, ancient buildings and ceramic roof tiles as Seventeenth century Baroque architecture rolls through the winding streets while elaborate staircases give São Luís an almost ghostly feel of faded glory and conquest.

The historic center of Sao Luis, photo by Marcusrg/Flickr Creative Commons License.

In the height of the North Brazilian heat, during the stifling hours of siesta, the streets are ripe for photographing and exploration. The Baroque buildings sit in a humid, dead air that gives the town a uniquely phantasmal vibe. Armed with plenty of water and a camera, sit on a park bench in the midst of the center and enjoy a peaceful dose of nostalgia. The historic center of São Luís was afforded a UNESCO World Heritage Site listing in 1997 and since then many of the buildings have been or currently are in the process of restoration.

If some of the architecture here seems French, it’s because they were the first Europeans there, arriving a mere three years before the Portuguese threw them out in 1615. The fort built by the French was conquered again by the Dutch in 1641, who stayed for four years before giving way to the Portuguese once more.

If the midday heat smothers your appreciation of colonial architecture, head down to one of the city beaches for a refreshing swim. Ponte d’Areia is a good place to start, and the nearby Lagoa Jansen is a great spot to go for a drink, especially on the weekends. A local specialty is São Luís’ personal take on the ever-popular soft drink guarana: the humbly named Jesus.

Old cafes of the UNESCO-protected city center, photo by Luís Guilherme/Flickr Creative Commons License.

At night the streets come alive around drink carts haphazardly set up by the side of the road blasting reggae music. São Luís has become known as one of the best places to hear reggae in Brazil, and the Jamaican rhythms adapted to Portuguese constantly sound through the streets and cafes.

The earliest known settlement of the area was a large village inhabited by the Tupinambá Indians. The latter belong to the Tupi ethnic group, a massive population that inhabited much of the Atlantic coast of Brazil and left their stamp on the eclectic Euro-African cultural melange that began to arrive in Brazil in the 16th century.

Today São Luís’ cultural scene continues to encompass a diverse mix of dance, music and famous literary figures, among whom Gonçalves Dias is the best known. Several famous samba greats hail from here too, while theater buffs will enjoy the famed local harvest festival Bumba Meu Boi, celebrated every year shortly after Easter.

São Luís lies on the north coast of Brazil in the state of Maranhão, 2000km from Rio de Janeiro. The city of one million inhabitants lies on the island of the same name in the Bay of Saint Marcus. Flights from Rio de Janeiro can be booked via Gol at www.voegol.com.br

SALVADOR – Coconut milk and heady spices dancing on the pallet bring to mind India, Africa or the Caribbean but these flavors are also the hallmarks of Bahian cuisine. The state located in the Northeast of Brazil with Salvador as its capital has long been famed for its stunning landscape, beaches, music and colonial architecture. However it also has a lot to boast about when it comes to cuisine, and does so in the Museu da Gastronomia Baiana (Bahian Gastronomic Museum).

Bahia's famous Moqueca dish, photo by Janaina Roberge/Wikimedia Creative Commons License.

It may be small, but the museum amply introduces the visitor to some of the basic principles of the local cuisine, and most importantly that Bahia has three main influences in its cooking; ‘Da Terra’, ‘Da Costa’, and ‘Do Reino’.

Da Terra (‘of the earth’) flavors come from the native populations of Brazil before it was colonized by Europeans. Da Costa (‘of the coast’) flavors, meanwhile, come from the African coast. Bahia, which has the highest black and mulatto population in Brazil, has been highly influenced by Africa in every aspect of its culture and cuisine is no exception.

Finally, Do Reino (‘of the empire’) are the flavors brought over from Portugal which had in turn been imported from far off places such as India and China. This triumvirate of influences has helped create the unique tastes enjoyed in the state today.

Inside the Museu da Gastronomia Baiana, phot by Alexandra Alden.

Dendê oil made from African palms remains one of the principal ingredients in Bahian cuisine and homage is paid to it in quotes from famous songs and poems whose lyrics line the walls of the museum. This intensely flavored oil which can floor the weak of stomach is a prime example of the close cultural link between Bahia and Africa. The oil was originally made in Angola and Gambia before being shipped over to these shores.

The museum also houses traditional water carrying devices, from hollowed out gourds to intricately designed ceramic affairs. The size and purpose of each object being well detailed in nearby descriptions.

The final and possibly most important part of the museum is the collection of recipe books laid out for visitors to look at (and copy down the contents), all of which are skilfully deployed at the upstairs SENAC restaurant.

There are varied recipes for moqueca, a type of stew made with coconut milk, dendê oil, onions, coriander, limes and traditionally shrimp or seafood (but can also be done with beef or chicken) and the famous Aracajé are also present. These black eyed pea fritters filled with shrimp and topped with pimenta malagueta (chilli) sauce are sold in street food stalls across the city and are a staple Bahian snack food. The recipes are a little gift that the visitor can try at home.

The museum, housed in a 19th century colonial townhouse, is located in Praça José de Alencar in the Largo de Pelourinho of Salvador. It is actually run by SENAC, a celebrated cultural institute, and includes the restaurant and book/sweets shop that sells SENAC publications as well as Bahian pastries. A must-see for any foodies who find themselves in Salvador and develop a taste for some of the country’s best food.

The Museu da Gastronomia Baiana
Praça José de Alencar, 13/19 – Largo do Pelourinho.
Salvador, Bahia. CEP: 40025-140
Tel: (71) 3324-4553
e-mail: museu.gastronomia@ba.senac.br
Open Monday to Saturday from 9AM to 11AM and from 12PM to 5:20 PM.

RIO DE JANEIRO – Excellent steak and wine, architecture reminiscent of a European metropolis and a tragic sense of melancholy expressed to perfection in a sophisticated dance. Buenos Aires buzzes with an energy and culture that make it one of South America’s most provocative capitals.

Tango dancers in the streets of San Telmo, photo by Joshua Learn.

A great place to start exploring the artistic metropolis is its oldest neighborhood. The Bohemian streets of San Telmo are filled with historic culture, from the cobblestone streets where performers dance tango for coins right up to the colonial buildings where old Porteños take in the action while sipping wine on overhanging balconies.

You don’t have to look far to find history in San Telmo: it seeps up from the pavement you walk on. And there is no better time to experience its heightened sense of antiquity than during the antique market held every Sunday in the park and streets surrounding Plaza Dorrego.

During Argentina’s military era, San Telmo residents were often persecuted by the police due to the concentration of Bohemian artists and socialist leaders in the neighborhood.

Plaques on the road side pay tribute to many of the victims, whose names and the date they disappeared are still visible to those who pass by.

Argentina’s most revered writer, Jorge Luis Borges, once claimed, “For everyone in Buenos Aires, the Southside is, in a mysterious way, the secret center of the city.”

Good, cheap accommodation is plentiful around San Telmo, which literally overflows with hostels and budget hotels. A good place to try is Hostel Carlos Gardel at Carlos Calvo 579 with beds around US$10, or Hotel Carly at Humberto 1464/66, which rents full rooms for around US$13– but bring your sleeping bag, because it gets cold in the winter and the building has no heating.

Let your love for tango, which came to life as a mimicked knife fight danced between two males at the turn of the century, carry you a little further into the dance’s legendary birthplace in the glorified lower-class neighborhood of La Boca.

Live music at a colorful bar in La Boca, photo by Joshua Learn.

A pocket of the port-side neighborhood has been colorfully restored to attract tourism, and dancing is the main highlight of the area. Be careful where you wander, however, as outside the heavily policed tourist section, La Boca remains as poor and dilapidated as it ever was.

Excellent steak and wine is still one of the major drawing cards for some tourists. Argentina is known for the quality of its beef, and restaurants with all-you-can eat steak buffets such as that at Siga la Vaca (Follow the Cow) draw huge nightly crowds. In addition to avoiding lines, it pays to arrive early at any parrilla (barbecue), as to not be stuck with leftovers and overcooked meet.

Also be warned that Argentina has numerous cuts of beef, often different to what many tourists are used to. If massive chunks of beef aren’t your forté, local specialties like locro stew and escaveche are great alternatives.

The second largest city in South America never sleeps, and as a result nightlife starts late. A true Porteño wouldn’t even consider entering a club until well after two in the morning. If you go out at 11PM, you are better off enjoying a play at one of the numerous theatres along Avenida Corrientes.