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Opinion, By Ben Edwards

RIO DE JANEIRO, BRAZIL – The local press has recently featured a nova cozinha Brasileira, or perhaps 'La nouvelle cuisine brésilienne', highlighting a new generation of young Brazilian chefs for whom the praise rang with faint damns, as it illustrated with painful vividness the inverse relationship between what you pay for a meal in Rio and what you get for the price.

Outsize talents compete to serve pint-size portions of confections long on that raffiné cuteness that insidiously sidled in with the nouvelle cuisine of the 1970s, when French chefs tried to convince . . .

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