RIO DE JANEIRO, BRAZIL - When looking for a new eatery opening in Vila Madalena, you'll often find the word "formerly" in parentheses and a reference to the previous eatery in that spot. The neighborhood is still a bohemian district with urban art. Still, it is gradually changing the profile of its stores, residents, regulars, and even the landscape, which is becoming more vertical.
In a pandemic, the changes become more apparent. They caught the attention this month, too, when it was announced that the 50-year-old Mercearia São Pedro, known for its cultural events and as a . . .
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